Stylish quote

“Don’t wear what you question, wear what you think is right for you.”

Karl Lagerfeld

 

Photo source: BCBG campaign Spring/Summer 2006

Chanel No.5: good buy and good-bye

On 6 November it was announced that Chanel No. 5, the iconic fragrance that embodies the spirit Chanel, may be banned because, according to scientists, some ingredients may cause an allergic reaction.

Although no reaction to the perfume has been reported in the 90 years of its existence, the scientists insist that it is vital to list eugenol that found in rose oil within the ingredients and entirely ban the tree moss – one of the natural substances that gives the perfume its distinctive smell, which means the death of the perfume.

Other fragrances that may also face the ban include Guerlain's Shalimar, Dior’s Miss Dior and Angel by Thierry Mugler.

It is incredibly sad to see this happening not only because so many women around the world may lose their signature fragrance forever, but also because the history and heritage can be lost with a stroke of a pen.

The European Commission are expected to propose new regulations within the fragrance industry in January 2014, so if you love your Chanel no. 5, stock up now (full range is available here (Europe) and here (US)). When unopened the perfume will keep for several years, especially refrigerated or at least stored in a cool place away from sunlight.

Hermes Autumn 2012 campaign

Hermes campaigns are always a little bit about daydreaming with the images capturing the essence of the season – the warm red glow of the falling leaves, exiting beauty of the sparkling snow and the crispiness of the transparent air only disturbed by a cloud of soft steam floating above a cup of hot chocolate that tastes especially delicious after a long walk.

I am signing off early this week and although I promise myself not to do anything, my brain is already busy making plans… Start each morning by visiting style.com to see the latest collections from the NYFW, watch Priceless (again), find September issue of Vogue Paris, wear new shoes, write at least two posts, one is destined to be shared somewhere else (my new adventure – details to follow) and then dissolve into a sleepy cloud.

Photo source: Hermes Autumn/Winter 2012/13 campaign via fashionising.com

My favourite Galliano collection for Dior

If I was a tsarina from Imperial Russia (or, as Galliano imagined, a young lady living in an English countryside, which is almost me) I would like to be born, raised and sent away on the last day of my life wearing these clothes. 

It’s been two years since the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2010/11 show, and I still want to touch the fabric, admire every detail, the fur, the delicate prints, silk flowers and ribbons, and the peachy soft leather. I long to feel the whisper of organza on my skin. I want to wear pearls and hear their flirty soft clinking.

I want to open my wardrobe, pick one of these gorgeous creations, the dress, the boots, the bag and all, and run outside feeling like an princess (or still that young British lady in a countryside) in a warm cloud of bliss. Totally impractical and so hopelessly romantic.

The words can’t describe how much I adore this collection. It took my breath away. It’s so me, I want to cry… As if Galliano saw my dreams, read my mind and made friends with my soul. This isn’t just love… this is a pure desire for beauty, sensuality and femininity.

 

P.S. The week isn’t over just because it’s Friday. Tomorrow I will share a story and on Sunday – a very special article you would not want to miss.

Photo source: Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear campaign Fall/Winter 2010/11, style.com

The Era of John Galliano: Christian Dior Spring 2005 campaign

John Galliano, the last designer at Maison Christian Dior that is worth talking about. As always I am starting my fashion week with one of my favourite campaigns from Galliano’s Era.

I chose these images as they shows how Galliano made Dior feel younger without loosing that special touch of luxury that defines the house – effortless blend of youthfulness, lightness, romance, sensuality and skill that is so incredibly rare. His perfectly executed designs were unique and exciting. They told stories. They became a part of fashion history.

You can hate John Galliano… Or, the way Miss Portman put it (while most likely having quite a few Dior dresses in her wardrobe), be disgusted about it…

You can erase him from your memory just like those book publishers – his illustrated fashion tale memoir by Camilla Morton was scheduled to come out after the Lacroix one, but then magically disappeared and has never been mentioned anywhere since…

You can blame him for every sin…

You can even call yourself his best friend, just like Bill Gaytten, the non-charismatic cutter and technical advisor, did, to then jump in front of the queue and replace Galliano on the spot… There’s always Brutus among us…

Or…

You can simply love him. Because loving a person, especially such a unique individual, makes you see and appreciate his best qualities, while ignoring the flaws. Love makes you search for answers – not turn away just because of an unfortunate incident that still looks like a set-up.

This week I may not dig dip into Galliano’s biography – he never really told much about his personal life or childhood and so I don’t want to be a nosy blogger or rely on information that may not always be true, although the articles I’ve found will provide you with plenty details to discuss. But I will share stories and images that made me fall in love with John Galliano and stick by his side in dark times of his life.

I wish I knew him personally because he is one of those people I would love to meet, talk about life, inspiration and, of course, fashion, because, just like any fashion genius, John Galliano could deeply understand it. This man was born for fashion. He was connected to it via an invisible umbilical cord, so the two were unseparatable. Fashion was his air, his life line, his big adventure.

I miss his presence in the fashion world. I miss  seeing him turning dreams wrapped in fabric, lace and crystals into a wearable, beautiful and desirable reality. I miss the excitement, the thrill, the second when you breath again after the last gowns leaves the runway… I miss the magic and poetry of his collection. I miss the tears of joy. I hope for his return.

Photo source: Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2005 Campaign

My previous posts about Galliano can be found here, here, here and here

Forgotten supermodel: Valeria Mazza

Although she is still well-known in America, on this side of the Atlantic many seem to have forgotten about Valeria Mazza, the Argentinian model who walked down the catwalk together with Linda, Naomi, Claudia and Cindy, was one of the original Versace girls, graced covers of fashion magazines, starred in campaigns of the biggest fashion houses and was Valentino’s muse.

The blue-eyed girl was born in 1972, in Rosario, Santa Fe, Argentina. When she was 14, a friend of the family helped Valeria get her first modelling job. The very first fashion show took place in Paraná, her home city.

After finishing high school Valeria moved to Buenos Aires to study Occupational Therapy. Since she was a teen, the girl made it her mission to help people with disabilities, so her choice of study course didn’t surprise anyone.

While studying Valeria and working as a volunteer, she continued modelling. Her first job was for Caro Cuore, a Buenos Aires-based company.

In 1992 Valeria moved to the States, but spent a lot of time travelling to Milan and Paris where she worked for Armani, Valentino, Dolce&Gabbana, Dior, Versace, Ralph Lauren and Ferre.

In 1995 Valeria was discovered by Paul Marciano and became a new face of Guess.

More campaigns followed… Versace, Donna Karan, Caractere, Escada, Halston and Chanel – a supermodel-worthy list, indeed.

No matter how busy she was, Valeria never stopped helping Special Olympics organisation and in 1993 was appointed its international Ambassador.

In 1996 the Sunday Times and El Mundo papers conducted a survey among their readers in order to select the one hundred 20th century most important women. There were only two models in the final list: Valeria Mazza and Claudia Schiffer.

In the same year she appeared on a cover of Sports Illustrated alongside Tyra Banks and continued building her impressive modelling portfolio working for Elle, Vogue, Cosmopolitan and Glamour as well as many Latin American glossies.

In 1998 Valeria Mazza met her future husband, Alejandro Gravier. They married on 9 May and welcomed their first new born, Balthazar, in 1999. Since then Valeria gave birth to three more beutiful children, two boys, Tiziano and Benicio and a girl, Taina.

Soon after the wedding Valeria and her husband as she were honoured with an invitation to the Vatican. The model attended a ceremony on the occasion of the first year of Mother Teresa of Calcutta’s death. Valeria and her husband met John Paul II during this ceremony. She then became the first model that the Pope received officially. In 2006 Valeria and her family travelled back to Vatican for the second visit. On this occasion, the Pope Benedict XVI received her and her family in a private audience.

Her family life didn’t stop Valeria from modelling. She appeared in more than 350 magazine covers worldwide, starred in more than 30 TV ads of Lux, San Pellegrino, Villavicencio, Pepsi and Falabella, among others. She also made a few TV appearances including MTV Latin America, Domenica In, San Remo’s Festival, Scommettiamo Che? and Come Sorelle in Italy and Esta noche invito yo, her own show in Latin America.

In addition to modelling Valeria developed her own make up line, VM Beauty, which includes perfumes, lotions and make up and became a columnist for Viva magazine.

In 2007 she flew to Milan to take part in a fashion show against anorexia organised by National Chamber of Fashion. After the show 30 models including Valeria Mazza received the “Giusto Equilibrio” (Exact Balance) award, because she is considered a reference of beauty and health in the fashion world.

Photo source: ?, Versace Atelier Spring/Summer 1996 campaign, Giorgio Grati 1996 campaign, Guess 1996 campaign, Halston campaign, Versace 1996 campaign, Escada Sport campaign, Cosmopolitan UK July 2000, Elle Mexico June 2010

Reference: valeriamazza.com.ar

Aymeline Valade: the Autumn star and my secret girl crush

When did I first notice this gorgeous Parisienne? I don’t really know… She just happened. Like a miracle. I loved her face - chiseled cheek bones, eyes, pout – a perfect harmony that makes a supermodel. I think she is stunning, just stunning, without any doubts or explanation.

This Autumn Aymeline Valade was photographed for several big Fall 2012 campaigns and made them look like a work of art. I have already framed one of the Armani shots, so precise, so chic, so very very classy.

If it was up to me, I would make her a face of everything, from perfumes to bags to sunglasses to clothes and jewellery because she adds a touch of timeless quality to every photo. I find her incredibly inspirational.

Photo source: Giorgio Armani Autumn/Winter 2012/13 campaign, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2012/13 campaign, Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2012/13 campaign, Donna Karan Autumn/Winter 2012/13 campaign, Reed Krakoff Autumn 2012 campaign, McQ Fall/Winter 2012/13 campaign.

Latest fashion news and finds

Early morning, cup of matcha that I’ve recently become addicted to and made a part of my morning, my little boy is napping before his walk and I have a few minutes for blogging and sharing some of the most exciting news and fashion finds.

At first I wanted to blog about each of them separately, but at the end decided to combine and serve as a fashion salad – better for both time and space management and using as a quick reference in the future.

Lets begin with a new fantastic and very precious documentary that is due to be released on DVD in September. “The Eye Has To Travel” is a story about one of the most influential women who created fashion of the 20th century, the one and only Diana Vreeland. The title of the movie is the same as the book that was published in 2011. I would love to get both of them – nothing can replace a beautiful book, but having a fashion documentary to go with it is a dream come true for any fashion lover. Make your calendars or pre-order your copy via amazon.

From September (oh, doesn’t it sound like a very special month?!) you will also be able to order a set of fashion books titled “Vogue On...” that cover four fashion designers including Chanel, Dior, Schiaparelli and McQueen. I feel I am going to be broke by October…

A new Valentino exhibition, “Master of Couture” will open at Somerset House in November 2012. For three months, from 29 November until 3 March, we will be given an opportunity to see over 130 dresses, including Jackie Kennedy Onassis' 1968 wedding dress, created by maestro during his 50-year career. If this seems like a long wait, I’d recommend watching one of my favourite documentaries, Valentino: The Last Emperor or browsing a beautiful book, Valentino, full of stunning creations.

Talking of fashion designers and their pets. Do you know that Karl’s gorgeous kitty, Choupette, has her own twitter? You can follow Choupette Lagerfeld via @ChoupettesDiary

And that’s all my news for today. Which one are you most excited about?

Photo source: Christian Dior Campaign Fall 1997

Prada Fall 2012 campaign video

Prada has just released their new campaign video only made available to those “in the know”. Unless you had a link to their youtube page, you wouldn’t be able to find it.

Powerful, minimalistic, clean-cut and beautiful scenes accompanied by crystal-like Zen flavoured music feel surreal, almost like a shot from an Oriental fairy tale. Softly moving virtual reality mixed with visual pleasure.

Photo source: Prada ready-to-wear Fall 2012 campaign

DIY idea

Forgive me for talking about knitwear in the midst of summer. I’ve noticed this skirt on a runway months and months ago and thought it could be DIY’ed with a bit of patience and good yarn. Now the Sonia Rykiel Fall campaign is out and the image is large and clear (or so I say), I am absolutely positive I would be able to create something similar.

Photo source: soniarykiel.com, elle.com

Natural beauty (wrinkles included)

A few weeks ago I met  a woman in her late 30s. I must admit, this was my very first encounter with somebody who had things done to such an obvious degree. I was fascinated. Her forehead, Botoxed to perfection, was so smooth and shiny that I could almost see my own reflection. The eyelashes “grew” in a way similar to teeth of a shark, in several layers. The lips were plumped – what I thought was a cold sore turned out to be collagen.

The face, struggling to produce any emotional outcome, was, in a way, perfect… I’d say, it was similar to something you’d see in Tussauds Museum, only their works would have a better finish.

It was a proper close-up sampling of a surgically made “perfection”. Every element that is often seen as a part of “ideal beauty” was there and yet, the beauty was missing.

It made me think, once again, why so many women voluntarily do it to themselves…

To me, watching my face age is a totally fascinating experience. I may not be super ecstatic about every change that happens to it, although I haven’t experienced that many yet, but I do somehow enjoy the process.

I think every woman is naturally very beautiful and do love to observe bare faces and emotions whenever I can. I like wrinkles, I like young peachy skin and I love how it changes with age to become thinner, like a delicate rice paper. I absolutely adore freckles. I think a face without make up is always gorgeous. And I like faces that move.

I truly understand that sometimes cosmetic surgery may be required because nature is not always kind to its creations or life throws one in a nasty accident, but I really don’t get it when women happily inject poison (and that’s what Botox really is) or go under the knife in order to allow somebody slice their face or body when, in reality, it is totally unnecessary.

I don’t believe in eternal youth – I think the most glamorous thing is being able to age gracefully, love your wrinkles and don’t give a damn about what the rest of the world is doing to their faces.

Just like Lauren Hutton said in her interview: "Our wrinkles are our medals of the passage of life. They are what we have been through and who we want to be." Personally, I’d rather stick with that quote. Kinda makes you feel free, doesn’t it?

 

Photo source: Guerlain campaign, Vogue Italia September 2005, Alexis Bittar campaign Fall/Winter 2011

Gianfranco Ferre jewellery

“Jewellery is one of the most important expressions, a flexible and versatile way of translating ideas and emotions into reality. Or bringing dreams to life.”

Gianfranco Ferre

Jewellery was Ferre’s first love and never ending passion. A hobby inspired by his fascination with precision, craftsmanship, forms and materials was a way to express his vision of beauty.

He began making jewellery while studying architecture spending his time moulding and combining leather and metals into bracelets and belts that he would then give to friends as presents.

His future changed when his childhood friend Isa Bertolini introduced him to Rosy Biffi and Franco Limonta, the owners of Biffi, the most popular Milanese boutique. The couple then approached him with an offer for designing a small collection of leather accessories, which he first refused thinking about his upcoming exams, but eventually agreed to.

A few weeks later Isa’s sister, Luciana Bertolini was spotted at a fancy party wearing a leather bracelet made by Ferre. The accessory caught attention of Anna Piaggi, an editor of Italian Vogue, who quickly sensed a new talent and immediately contacted Ferre asking if he would be able to design a few pieces for the upcoming New York photoshoot.

And so, from bijoux to jewellery, his journey as a designer has began. Ferre stopped working as an architect and completely devoted himself to his new project.

The more he learned and saw, the more elaborate his pieces became. Influenced by West and East, history and places, he would sculpt the jewellery from gilded metals, painted wood, paste, semi-precious stones, tulle and sequins assigning each creation with a symbol, an ornament of India, China, Japan or the Amazon forest.

Everything he designed was “linked to the “physicality” of human form”, focusing attention on the key points of the figure: a long neck, shoulders, wrists and waist. The pieces were placed strategically to construct the body, lengthen it, add a touch of sensuality with a tinkling of bracelets, a necklace that caressed the neck or a wide belt that would mark the movement of the hips.

He saw jewellery as a mirror of the clothing, one impossible without the other, but at the same time, as individual as a woman who wore it. In its most opulent form, the cascades of precious stones and beads laid over a bare flesh would replace a part of an outfit, becoming an item of clothing – it was a beautiful extreme, a totally new vision.

 

Photo source: Gianfranco Ferre Jewellery Campaign Fall/Winter 1994-1995

The white shirt

Every good designer has a signature item. For Gianfranco Ferre it was the white shirt that he produced in hundreds and hundreds of different designs seeking the naturalness that suited female body. The garments often made of taffeta, organza and silks were light, almost weightless, with the fabric moving around every curve as if caught in the whirl of a gust of wind, accentuating the shoulders and waist, but never taking away the sense of freedom.

An architect in Ferre desired simplicity, precision of cut and origami inspired forms, while Ferre, the aesthete and romantic, looked for inspiration in Renaissance and often used lavish details as decorative touches.

In one of his lectures Ferre said that his “blouses in particular, may retain deliberate traces of opulence, large and emphatic volumes, but are always endowed with a lightness that liberates from any sense of encumbrance and constriction.”

On 25 June 2007, just a week after his death, his last ever men’s wear collection show was closed with children dressed in oversized white shirt as a tribute to the designer who always believed in purity and, as he often put it, rational dreams.

Photo source: Gianfranco Ferre Spring 1994 campaign

Gianfranco Ferre Fall 2004 campaign

It’s time for a fashion week. This time it’s dedicated to the one and only architect of fashion, six-time winner of the prestigious Occhio d'Oro as best Italian designer and the De D'Or as couture designer, Gianfranco Ferre.

There were a few good reasons for me to write about him. I’ve admired the man since I was very young. He was, in fact, one of the few designers I was aware of as a teen and my very first perfume coincidently was by Gianfranco Ferre, so just a mention of his name brings back beautiful memories.

But the most important reason was to highlight the importance of his work both for his own label and Christian Dior and the impact he made on fashion history.

Lets start the journey with a few shots from a beautiful Gianfranco Ferre Fall 2004 campaign featuring Louise Pedersen photographed by Patrick Demarchelier. I chose it because each look had such a timeless appeal. I loved the styling on the first and third photos – long sleeves of the sweater, classic trench, rolled-up trousers, classic pumps, short sleeved jumper worn with a pencil skirt and white shirt. The clothes photographed in a way that make you want to live through those moments and, of course, dress a part. Head to toe in Gianfranco Ferre.

Photo source: Gianfranco Ferre Fall 2004 campaign

via bwgreyscale.com