Chanel No.5: good buy and good-bye

On 6 November it was announced that Chanel No. 5, the iconic fragrance that embodies the spirit Chanel, may be banned because, according to scientists, some ingredients may cause an allergic reaction.

Although no reaction to the perfume has been reported in the 90 years of its existence, the scientists insist that it is vital to list eugenol that found in rose oil within the ingredients and entirely ban the tree moss – one of the natural substances that gives the perfume its distinctive smell, which means the death of the perfume.

Other fragrances that may also face the ban include Guerlain's Shalimar, Dior’s Miss Dior and Angel by Thierry Mugler.

It is incredibly sad to see this happening not only because so many women around the world may lose their signature fragrance forever, but also because the history and heritage can be lost with a stroke of a pen.

The European Commission are expected to propose new regulations within the fragrance industry in January 2014, so if you love your Chanel no. 5, stock up now (full range is available here (Europe) and here (US)). When unopened the perfume will keep for several years, especially refrigerated or at least stored in a cool place away from sunlight.

Christian Dior perfumes

“A woman's perfume tells more about her than her handwriting.”

Christian Dior

In the late 1940s France was known for its wine, fashion and perfume that were the most important French exports. For a fashion house having its own perfume meant reaching a wider audience and increasing its profits by significant amounts. Even those who couldn’t afford a Dior dress, would buy a perfume. A little piece of luxury would made a woman feel like a Dior woman, elegant, beautiful and one-of-a-kind without costing a fortune.

Even before the house of Dior was opened, Christian Dior was approached by Serge Heftler-Louiche, his old friend who first worked for Coty and then started his own business.

In 1947 they created “Miss Dior”.

The new fragrance was designed by Paul Vacher  with Dior’s personal involvement. “Create a fragrance that is like love,” he requested. The perfume, a delicate bouquet of Egyptian jasmine, Patchouli and tuberose, became an instant hit. It felt modern, but also feminine and romantic combining all the things women craved in those post-war times.

The luxury version was presented in a crystal flacon made by Baccarat, while the more affordable one included a modern looking bottle engraved in a hound’s-tooth motif that was frequently used by the house for their daywear designs. The name was inspired by Dior’s sister, Catherine, who walked in his boutique one day and was greeted by Mitzah Bricard “Look, there is Miss Dior!” And the “Miss Dior” was born.

More than a litre of perfume was sprinkled all over the Dior boutique daily and soon it was immediately associated with the spirit of Maison Dior and became its haute couture perfume.

The “Diorama”, an intoxicating, passionate and sensual perfume, created by Edmond Roudnitska in 1949, combined the notes of bergamot, peach, jasmine, tuberose and gardenia with the warming spicy and velvety clove, nutmeg, sandal wood and cedar, “to dress every woman with a trail of desire”.

It was in autumn to become the cold weather fragrance as most women used to wear different perfumes depending on the seasons’. The crystal bottle designed by Fernand Guerry-Colas, was a true object d’art with its lines inspired by the obelisk in Place de la Concorde.

By the mid 1950s Christian Dior sold 500000 bottles of “Miss Dior” and “Diorama” annually in 87 countries. They were later followed by “Diorissimo” that became the most expensive exported perfume ever sold and “Eau Fraiche” launched in 1956.

Source: Dior by Alexander Palmer / Photo source: Miss Dior by Dior 1960s ad & Diorama by Dior 1950s ad via Flickr

Outfit inspiration: Milan fashion week

Outfit number 3 to celebrate one of my favourite fashion weeks. I know I am a day late as Milan fashion week officially started yesterday, but I am a creature of habits and Wednesday is a Stylish quote day, so the outfit had to wait.

On the other hand they say best things happen to those who wait, so I really hope that you will like my Milan-inspired look.

It all began with an Etro jacket that had amazing details and I wanted the outfit to reflect some of the most beautiful elements of the garment.

I picked the light blue dress because Italians are very much about femininity and sensuality and a combination of powdery colour, silk, elegant ruched details of the back (you can see it if you follow the link below) and delicate pattern of the skirt were absolutely perfect. Then I thought of the shoe option and my mind went back to this very Dolce&Gabbana pair made of macramé lace – sort of the same pattern as the front panels of the coat.

The rest was easy. A statement ring for a bit of diamond sparkle and beautiful Murano glass necklace, delicate enough not to overpower the dress, but to add the tiny accents with the ice-like beads circled in gold and tangerine strokes of melted glass.

And of course, a bag that’s big enough to carry all the necessities, but beautifully shaped and compact, and a pair of sunglasses for you cannot be in Milan and not wear any.

Patchwork jacket by Etro, ruched and crochet-knit dress by Missoni, Flume Murano glass chocker necklace by Antica Murina, Rita 2 sunglasses by MaxMara, Chioccia ring by Galante Visconti, Macramé Lace Ankle Boots by Dolce&Gabbana, Silvana bag by Fendi, perfume Bottega Veneta by Bottega Veneta

Russian top-models: Kristina Semenovskaya

Nobody knew much about the new girl. She was from Russia and had gorgeous green eyes, full sensual lips, dark blond hair and beautiful figure. Kristina Semenovskaya was discovered in Moscow and signed up by Karin Models Paris as soon as they saw one of her photos.

The agency quickly realised that they found a very special girl. The newly discovered 14-year old gem was invited to Paris where she could finish her education and learn foreign languages in one of the international school.

As soon as Kristina celebrated her 16th birthday the agency introduced her to the fashion industry and the young model soon signed her first contract, this time with Levis. In 1995 she featured in the company’s Spaceman advert for 501 jeans.

Within a year Kristina Semenovskaya moved into a new universe. She became a face of Classique, a new perfume by Jean Paul Gaultier, appeared on a cover of French Elle, was photographed for Pirelli calendar in 1997 and signed a contract with Christian Dior.

Her first Dior campaign was for “Dune”, the fourteenth Dior fragrance introduced in 1991. Created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac, a nose behind “Farenheit” and “Opium” the new perfume became a new must-have fragrance for many and received a Perfume of the Year award.

Angelica Wallgren was the original face of the fragrance, but her look didn’t suit the idea of the campaign and Kristina was chosen to replace her in 1996.

The beautiful model looked innocent, fresh and radiant on her photos taken by Nick Knight and became most associated with the perfume and adored by men and women around the world. The campaign was such a success that Kristina received an offer to become a face of all Dior cosmetics. She signed the contract in 1997, same year when Galliano became the new Dior designer.

Kristina had the most amazing look: both classic and modern, the image was beyond any fashion rules, it was timeless.

By the end of 1990s Kristina Semenovskaya was working with Guerlain, L’Oreal, Louis Vuitton, Benneton, Stefanel, Mango, Morgan and Naf-Naf and appeared in many fashion shows including Jean-Paul Gaultier, Lanvin, Christian Dior, Kenzo, Nina Ricci, John Galliano, Herve Leger and Christian Lacroix.

She stopped modelling in 2004 after appearing in Madame Figaro for the last time. The times were changing and so were the demands and tastes of the fashion industry.

Photo sources: Madame Figaro 1997, Dior Campaign, Elle Russia November 1998, Dune Christian Dior campaign 1996, Christian Dior campaign, Naf Naf campaign, DS France 2000

For those addicted to Yves Saint Laurent

Altough Opium was a perfect accompaniment to the most beautiful Saint Laurent’s The Ballets Russes couture collection that defined him as an artist, it was Saint Laurent’s love for Asian love, his memories of Japan and his vision of 18th century China that inspired the actual fragrance.

The perfume was also available to those who couldn’t afford haute couture or Rive Gauche clothes, but still wanted something classy, elegant and magical. For women buying a $80 bottle meant that you can wear Yves Saint Laurent. For the company every sale meant a profitable affair: a 14ml bottle would only cost $4 to make, $6 to package and $8 – to advertise.

In the mid 1970s French perfumes, particularly Chanel No. 5 and Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, were the most popular in the world because they were associated with the centuries of expertise of the Grasse “noses”. Traditionally, a new perfume would start from a formula, the “juice”. If it was special, a name and suitable advertising campaign would be designed to match the fragrance.

 

Opium was the first French perfume that followed an American model beginning from coming up a name and image for the fragrance and only then creating the formula to match the two. The “juice” was also constructed in a way perfumes were made in the States where proportions of one part oil to four parts liquid helped to achieve a stronger smell.

It turned out that the name “Opium” was already registered by two elderly perfumiers years before Yves Saint Laurent, but they happily sold the rights to the company for $200.

The formula was created by Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac of Roure and based on a deep warm mixture of woody based made of sandalwood, cedar, myrrh, patchouli, musk, vetiver and amber mixed with fruit and spices including mandarin orange, pepper, plum, clove, bay leaf and coriander followed by the middle notes of jasmine, rose and Lily of the Valley combined with carnation, cinnamon and peach.

The packaging was inspired by a replica of a Mandarin lacquered bottle encased in a brown box embossed with hold lettering and sprigs of Chinese flowers that was a part of Saint Laurent and Berger’s collection at rue de Babylone. The beautiful flacon holding a sensual mysterious fragrance was designed by Pierre Dinand who took inspiration from the Japanese inro and decided to avoid frilly crystal designs and let the perfume inside speak for itself.

What was toned down in packaging, was made up for in the advertising campaign featuring Jerry Hall lying on a lame sofa beneath a Ming buddah in the Oriental room at rue de Babylone wearing a black and gold Mandarin jacket lined with red satin over a gold vest and purple satin harem trousers with a red braid belt, high-heeled strappy sandals and handfuls of jewellery. Saint Laurent not only designed the outfit, but also insisted that campaign shoot took place in his apartment. Before everything was photographed by Helmut Newton, every detail was adjusted by Yves himself – he even showed the model how to lie on the cushions and made sure that every piece of jewellery was placed perfectly.

The ad said: “Opium, pour celles qui s’adonnent à Yves Saint Laurent” / “Opium, for those who are addicted to Yves Saint Laurent.”

France loved the perfume and so did the Europe. In 1977 the sales of Opium in just one month generated more sales than Chanel No. 5 did in the entire year! When the perfume was launched in the States, Diana Vreeland who attended the Opium party held at the Peking was asked what she thought of the fragrance. “I like the smell of money,” she replied. She was right: no matter how much controversy it caused, very quickly Opium became one of the best selling perfumes.

Photo sources: Opium bottle 2011, Nastasia Urbano in Opium 1992 campaign, Opium bottle, original design 1977, Jerry Hall in Opium campaign 1977, Nastasia Urbano in Opium 1992 campaign, Emily Blunt in Opium campaign 2011.

Weekend sign off

How fabulous is that Lanvin dress from 2003 Natalia’s wearing? It was a gorgeous collection…

Well, today I’m following a “talk about what you see” rule, so please don’t seek any logic in a story – just enjoy the reading (hopefully).

According to the latest fashion news, Giles Deacon left Ungaro and nobody knows who is going to replace him. I quietly hope it’s going to be Giambattista Valli because he’s highly capable of producing couture, ready-to-wear, colour, gorgeous shapes, chic and impeccable cut. He would feel solid to me and it would be nice to see somebody like him finally giving the house of Ungaro plenty of TLC after it’s been through hands of several designers and, most shockingly, Lindsay Lohan.

Another house that’s trying to get their act together is, of course, Dior. Apparently, Mr Jacobs will be replacing him. I’m not going to jump in with my opinion on the new creative collaboration, however, do want to mention that, as far as Dior is concerned, I’m totally with Franca Sozzani on this, but frankly I don’t think Galliano would actually return to the house of Dior after they treated him like some unwanted toy that got a few dusty spots, nor Dior would have guts to apologise to the designer. Shame, but here we go.

Oh, lets talk more about fashion houses, shall we? To celebrate the launch of their first perfume Bottega Veneta released a short movie directed by Christian Weber and Tomas Maier. It’s all about sensations as if showing the birth of the fragrance itself. Beautiful and classy, as always.

And that’s about it for now. Don’t want to keep you in front of your screen for ages on a glorious Saturday morning.

Wishing you a wonderful weekend!

Always yours,

Photo source: Telegraph Fashion UK 16 March 2003

Bottega Veneta: fragrant début

This year Bottega Veneta launched their first perfume. The fragrance that represents “invisible, private luxury” was inspired by the Veneto region of Italy with “rolling green hills and an old house with its old wood floors, library walls and leather-bound books, with the windows open wide, the breeze coming in and cut grass, hay, moss, garden flowers, growing through the room and everything mixing up”.

A precious elixir containing the notes of bergamot, jasmine, oak moss, patchouli and Brazilian pink pepper was created by Michel Almairac and then poured into limited edition Murano glass bottles decorated with a small metal brunito cap and a leather ribbon clipped with a butterfly stamp.

The decadent campaign featuring gorgeous Nine d’Urso, daughter of Inès de la Fressange included a photo advert and a short movie directed by Tomas Maier and created by Bruce Weber whose work “conveys a mix of spontaneity, sensuality, confidence, and timelessness” according to Maier.

He also explained his choice of the model for the campaign saying that “there is something classically elegant about her, yet she is totally modern. She conveys a sense of heritage worn lightly but with respect.”

Sources: wwd.com, vogue.com, elleuk.com

Stylish quote

“Perfume is a stimulant of the senses. A tonic for the spirit. Perfume is impalpable, a substance, a concentration, a contour. It is our own shadow. It is a luxurious image, our transparency, a majestic choreography, a kind of inner palace, an architecture of exquisite crystal.”

Serge Lutens