Chanel No.5: good buy and good-bye

On 6 November it was announced that Chanel No. 5, the iconic fragrance that embodies the spirit Chanel, may be banned because, according to scientists, some ingredients may cause an allergic reaction.

Although no reaction to the perfume has been reported in the 90 years of its existence, the scientists insist that it is vital to list eugenol that found in rose oil within the ingredients and entirely ban the tree moss – one of the natural substances that gives the perfume its distinctive smell, which means the death of the perfume.

Other fragrances that may also face the ban include Guerlain's Shalimar, Dior’s Miss Dior and Angel by Thierry Mugler.

It is incredibly sad to see this happening not only because so many women around the world may lose their signature fragrance forever, but also because the history and heritage can be lost with a stroke of a pen.

The European Commission are expected to propose new regulations within the fragrance industry in January 2014, so if you love your Chanel no. 5, stock up now (full range is available here (Europe) and here (US)). When unopened the perfume will keep for several years, especially refrigerated or at least stored in a cool place away from sunlight.

Christy Turlington in Vogue Italia 1992

“Vive Paris” is one of my favourite editorials of all times and, as I am preparing to add it to the blog, I wonder why I haven’t shared it before. The story is about everything I adore – it’s Christy Turlington wearing head-to-toe Chanel in Paris photographed by Steven Meisel, mostly in black in white. So here is some visual perfection for your Monday morning.

Photo source: Vogue Italia February 1992

That very special Vogue 1999 editorial

I trust you enjoyed yesterday’s treat video. I certainly did. Being true to myself I then went through my files to find the couture editorial mentioned in the story. I had to – it was too beautiful not to publish. That photo of Kate in dreamy white Chanel Haute Couture gown that made her look like an Angel has always been a favourite of mine, while the black and white portrait featuring beautiful head piece / earrings created by Galliano for Dior Couture make me think of a very similar piece designed by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Spring/Summer 2012 Haute Couture collection (and then used in Dalhia Noir campaign). But enough talking – enjoy the photos.

Photo source: Vogue US October 1999

Chanel: The Little Black Jacket exhibition in London

“There are clothes which keep rejuvenating themselves instead of getting worn out.”

Roberto Juarroz

Happy to report – being there, got a poster.

On a serious note, I have been really looking forward to the Little black jacket exhibition and as soon as it was opened jumped on a train to London.

It was truly special to see moody dim silent rooms filled with gorgeous images of fashion and music royalty dressed in Chanel, styled by Carine Roitfeld and photographed by Karl Lagerfeld who made one the early 20s century classic piece look modern and incredibly versatile. I snapped some of my favourites with an iphone – I wasn’t at all prepared to be allowed to photograph, so the proper camera was left behind, a mistake that I will never ever make again.

Luckily, the style of the photography somewhat compensated the quality of the iphone images, so here are a few to share.

If you are in London, do visit Saatchi gallery. The entry is free and you also get a poster to keep as a memory. The exhibition is open until 28th October.

Photo source: personal

Paris fashion week impressions

The last week of the fashion season was overwhelming in many ways. There were beautiful clothes. There was a generous amount of gossip that stained my otherwise exciting and sparkling idea of a beautiful week. And there were a couple of disappointments and a few surprises, too.

It was very difficult to pick a few favourites this time – it feels unfair not to mention certain designers in fear of running out of blog space. I am condensing it to the bare minimum of words and photos in hope to preserve the essence and memories of this special time without making you fall asleep right here, on your keyboard…

My absolute favourites (in alphabetical order) included…

…the dreamy, romantic, floaty, origami pleated, cool blue and delicately printed Cacharel.

…excessive in quantities and pearls, feminine, sweet and beautifully embroidered Chanel.

…very French (or better yet, Parisian), light as air, garnished with most gorgeous floral applique and beautifully accessorised Chloe.

…the sober and elegant day wear and out of this world sparkling gowns at Elie Saab.

… sunny, adorable, 1960s-inspired Louis Vuitton.

… beautiful, minimalistic in a way, until you see the finishing touches of elaborate embroidery or sequins sparkling in the dark, unfolding into a fantasy, Valentino collection. The simple silhouettes and stunning details made those clothes absolutely timeless.

…Vanessa Bruno for its Parisian feel, colours, carefree attitude, mix of floating silks with structured leather jackets and wish-list worthy footwear.

And talking of ultimate spoilers…

First of all, Christian Dior show. I was looking forward to it. I was very excited and my heart wanted to be in love (and so did my mind, if I am honest). I didn’t get the collection. It confused me. It made me think of the previous Haute Couture show, table cloth, badly fitted footwear and, ironically, the smoking jacket (yes, the Yves Saint Laurent smoking jacket).

I know Raf is a lovely man and I know everyone loves him. I totally understand the enthusiasm that comes with the new era of Christian Dior.

I just don’t like the clothes.

The second bad memory formed after John Galliano show designed by Bill Gaytten. It was sad, bizzare and messy, although the music was good. It felt like a funeral. I am trying really hard to brush off the feeling, but so far failing miserably.

And then there was also Yves Saint Lauren by Hedi Slimane. Or should I refer to it as Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane? Or Saint Laurent? Apparently there is a huge difference now and one is supposed to use a certain names when referring to specific topics.

The collection itself was wonderful, fantastic, in fact, because it made me think of Yves and his aesthetics and signature pieces (the smoking, the blouse and bows, pea jacket, jumpsuit and Saharienne). It made me think of all things bohemian. It reminded me of the Opium years (as a perfume, not the other thing). I loved the jewellery and the shoes – I imagine those statement pendant necklaces being used a lot in editorials comes spring and becoming another must-have item.

What I didn’t like was the gossip that followed. All that open letter nonsense. It became too personal and too bitter. It spoilt the overall impression.

And that is it. The Paris Fashion Week. It’s over now and so is my post. Thank you for reading.

Photo source: vogue.com, style.com