Introducing: Natalie Hand

Even before you learn that Natalie Hand runs Viva London, works with the most beautiful models, speaks two languages and has a degree, you see red hair, gorgeous eyes, hear her soft voice and… well, if you are anything like me… you lose an ability to put words into proper sentences. When we first met, I totally failed being me – I just smiled and swallowed everything I wanted to say. All I could think of was being in a very special place (both literally and metaphorically) and meeting somebody who looks like Christy Turlington (in her supermodel days) and has the best job in the world.

When my brain got back to functioning again, I asked her for an interview – being the treasure that she is, she agreed.

Who did you want to be when you were a child?

An actress. I played Mary in my infant school Nativity play and loved it, even though I remember cringing at 'Joseph' as I thought he was bit of a nerd. I sung and dance playing Marta at the age of 10 in The Sound of Music at Nottingham Theatre Royal. I thought I had really hit the big-time (!) and I even learnt how to yodel! After that I wanted to be a barrister for a while.

When did you feel that fashion really got under your skin?

I must have been about 16, when I started studying for my A levels. The 'Supermodel' era was peaking and I managed to be swept away by the tail end of it. I was more fascinated by the glamour and excitement than the clothes themselves at first I think.

How did you get into the industry?

Pure fluke if I'm honest. I was moving around unhappily trying various post-graduate jobs for size when one day I saw an advert for a 'Junior Booker' at a model agency in the newspaper (probably the Media section of the Guardian). I liked the sound of a model agency as I certainly loved fashion. But also I had been infected with a curious passion for faces since poring over those pictures of Christy, Kate and Claudia. I loved how they could appear to be like silent movie actresses in the pages of fashion magazines. Such chameleons, such storytellers. The thought of being able to play my part in bringing these magical stories to life by finding the right 'actress' for the role... I knew it would be a challenge I could relish.

What are the most treasured memories about working in fashion so far?

One of the most fulfilling things is how you grow with the girls. You can take on a New Face with lots of potential and over the months and years watch her bloom - both personally and professionally. You become very close and revel in their triumphs as much as if they were your own. This is not only a memory but fortunately an ongoing reality. But I also was lucky enough to watch many McQueen shows. They were definitely some of the most emotionally moving experiences of my career.

My most favourite moments - I suppose being privy to the inside world of the fashion industry, being able to watch incredibly talented people (many of whom have become friends), create inspiring and beautiful things and moments. Working with them to help their visions become reality.

Having had the chance to live in Paris for seven years. The combination of that city and fashion is particularly unique and powerful.

What are your favourite Parisian destinations?

Maison Mere, fantastic cosy restaurant near my apartment in the ninth arrondissement.

Azzedine Alaia's outlet shop in the Marais.

The view from the top of Sacre Coeur will always make you catch your breath.

And there are not enough parks in Paris! A downfall actually for an avid runner like me.

And I just have to ask about Parisiennes... Could you share some of their secrets for looking so effortlessly chic and beautiful?

The ability to age gracefully. In fact I am convinced that French women manage to become more gorgeous, sexy and sophisticated with age. They don't follow fads but seem to know themselves very well, what suits them and what doesn't. They all have a very good dermatologist too.

And your won style… Can you describe it in five words?

Simple, elegant, lean, effortless, bold

Are there any unfashionable things you do?

Gosh so many things I'm afraid. But if I had to choose one - you should see the horrendous slippers that my boyfriend hates but I love because they keep my feet warm... my feet are always, always cold.

Lets talk about modelling as I am sure many girls would love to hear your thoughts on that...

It takes an awful lot of character and courage to succeed as a model. To be spotted just means a girl has the physical requisites. But a really successful career requires intelligence and ambition and a lot of hard work on her part. And she will have to love the industry because in the end the top photographers, stylists and designers like to work with people who inspire them too… especially their muses! When they work with models who have something to add to the equation it sets them apart. What is quite interesting is a trend at the moment towards using older girls. Saskia and Kati are two of our most recent success stories at the ages of 31 and 29 respectively. They are women with interests and opinions. I believe that models should keep up their education for as long as they can. Edie Campbell is currently in her final year at the Courthauld Institute studying for a degree in Art History for example.

What qualities make a top model? Apart, of course, the physical appearance... How do you choose the girls who become a part of Viva?

Aside from what I said earlier about personality of course...

People often say that they can recognise a 'Viva' girl but it is difficult to put the aesthetic into words. The best I can do is to say that we always look for true beauty but with a slight quirk - something that sets the girl apart and makes her unique. Often this is enhanced by intelligence, personality, ambition and personal style. You always know it when you see it.

What should a young girl do to get into the industry?

Make sure never to have test shots done by anyone in the hope of being taken on by an agency. The best agencies know what they are looking for - and personal snapshots and digital Polaroids will most definitely suffice to start with. You can of course also actually going in person on an open call so the agents can meet you.

My advice, to reiterate what I said before, is to continue education for as long as possible. If your career is well managed then modelling and education can definitely work in tandem with each other. There will be periods when you cannot work very much of course and others (such as holiday times) when you can. But the most important thing is to find an agency you trust and communicate well with and then you should find this works smoothly.

And what do you think should a young model do to succeed?

After making sure that you are being looked after by a great agency that you respect and like... Try to learn as much as you can about the business and watch and learn from the best. Listen to good advice from people you trust and work hard. Most importantly, enjoy it! Modelling can give you so many incredible opportunities and experiences. Grab them and enjoy them! Your zest and enthusiasm will make you even more attractive to clients.

And what qualities make up a top model?

Ambition, determination, charm, intelligence, hard-work - as well as beauty.

How do you feel when you see Viva models on a catwalk or in fashion magazines?

Incredibly proud always. From the New Face who has just walked in her first show to seeing Edie grab her first i-D cover for example to Natalia shooting another cover of British Vogue… as an agent you always feel proud. You have seen the girls grow and develop, often after overcoming setbacks. You help them on their way, try to give them the guidance and tools to grow... but in the end it is up to them to blossom.

7 things about Natalie:

Favourite dessert: fondant au chocolat (best in Paris)

Best way to relax: meditation (should do more really), reading. Or occasionally a great massage.

If you could be anywhere right now, where would you find yourself? In Santa Monica, staying at Shutters on the Beach.

Most favourite item in your wardrobe? At the moment it is my Kinder Aggugini cowboy print jumper.

Shoes or bags? Can I say jackets?! If not then it would be Churches penny loafers..

Books or magazines? Both at different times. But I really do love books. I wish I had an entire Library room like in Downton Abbey!

One of your guilty pleasures: 70s disco music. I am a gay man trapped in a woman's body when it comes to music taste...

Kinder Aggugini–an exclusive interview

A brilliant and very unique Italian-born London-based designer, Kinder Aggugini studied at Saint Martins, worked with John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Donatella Versace as well as Costume National, Calvin Klein and Paul Smith.

Until his debut in February 2009, he was fashion editors’ best kept secret. The orders for redingotes, Chanel-inspired tweed jackets (Kinder once referred to his work as an unholy marriage of Coco Chanel and Sid Vicious), silk dresses and evening pea coats were placed privately and admired by the selected few.

Autumn / Winter 2008

Spring / Summer 2009

And then he came out bringing mix of romantic prints and structured garments to the London Fashion Week giving it an absolutely new and fresh dimension.

Spring / Summer 2011

His mind, just like a beautiful kaleidoscope made of rainbow pieces, creates dreams of a wearable kind. His collections, influenced by memories from his punk rock past and Italian heritage, love of books, music and art and his deep knowledge of fabrics  and techniques, are for those women who love ageless style, impeccable quality, have a sense of humour and enjoy of being a little bit unpredictable.

It was a very bold move for me to ask Kinder for an interview – he agreed (and made me feel incredible). Having his answers is like receiving a precious gift and I cannot thank him enough for sharing his time and thoughts with me.

Autumn / Winter 2012

When did fashion become a part of your life?

As far as I can remember I was always obsessed with fashion. In my teens I learned to make my own clothes and experimented with a number of looks. When my peers started asking to have what I was wearing I decided to figure how to do this forever.

Who has been the greatest influence on your career?

The Designers I worked for. I chose them because I found them inspiring and ultimately they shaped the way I design today.

What was working with Donatella like?

I had a great time. She’s one of the most generous kind and funny people I know. When I met her she said ”I didn’t formally train as a designer but I worked for 25 years with one of the best in the world, I must have learned something”. She was absolutely right.

What was the best lesson you’ve learned from working with Galliano?

I learned that cutting on the bias is not a standard rule, it can be done in multiple ways and each can have a distinctively different effect.

What do you think of first thing in the morning?

Since I started my own collection I always wake up with a mixture of concerns for all the things I haven’t done and the excitement for all I’m about to do.

What is the most fascinating thing about creating a collection?

It’s such a thrill to bring something into existence. From a simple thought to a three-dimensional object it truly gives me the greatest pleasure.

Do you still design with the music in your head playing like a sound track?

Always! I find music extremely stimulating. In the absence of anything playing in the room my head switches on.

You do come across as a music connoisseur – what are your favourite bands /artists?

Really hard to narrow it down I have such a varied love of music. This morning I thought of Bach - Double Violin Concerto in D Minor and a moment ago I had Skrillex – Breakn’a Sweat ringing in my head. I think my brain also functions as an iPod.

What are the top 3 things on your “Million things to-do list” right now?

Research. Fabric Selection. Accounts.

What is your fashion philosophy?

Bold fabrics in chic shapes. Bold shapes in chic fabrics. Always have a look.

***

5 things about Kinder:

Favourite dessert: Eaton Mess.

Best way to relax: Meditate or videogames.

If you could be anywhere right now, where would you find yourself? Walking on Zabriskie Point.

Books or magazines? Books.

One of your guilty pleasures: I love Disco.

 

Photo source: Chris Brooks for Telegraph, aggugini.com, style.com

5 minutes with Anne-Marie Van Dijk

Meeting Anne-Marie Van Dijk was, indeed, a once in a life time opportunity and the time spent in her company will always be a special memory for me. Admittedly, at first I was nervous because it’s not every day that a girl like me gets to meet a top model who walked for the most influential fashion designers including John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Prada, Christopher Kane, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dries van Noten, Donna Karan, Moschino and Dolce&Gabbana, starred in several campaigns, from Alberta Ferretti, Cacharel, Bebe, Swarowski to Louis Vuitton and Giangranco Ferre and was photographed for Vogue, Elle, L’Officiel, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire and Glamour.

Dressed in skinny black jeans and black off-shoulder sweater that made her delicate collar bones even more exquisite, blond hair gathered in a low twist bun, flawless absolutely make-up free glowing skin, emerald green eyes, gorgeous full lips resembling rose petals, she looked every inch of a model, a very special kind of a human being.

She was fascinating. Warm, kind, open, intelligent and very, very sweet. When I asked her about a quick interview for my blog, she didn’t hesitate a second. Does it even worth mentioning that I absolutely adore and admire her?!

Your style in 3 words: Casual, comfortable, minimalistic.

Favourite quote: “The universe is a stage on which your mind dances with your body, guided by your heart”
 - Anonymous

Most exciting fashion experience:
 Attending the Harris Center’s 15th Annual Public Forum. Keynote speakers included Doutzen Kroes, Arianna Huffington and Franca Sozzani. I had the pleasure of meeting Franca Sozzani – what an incredible, powerful and intelligent woman! I have deep respect for all three women and applaud them for addressing important issues such as the health and well-being of working models in the fashion industry.

3 beauty or make-up products you cannot be without: Tata Harper Reparative Moisturizer, Bee Yummy Honey Mask, RMS Beauty Luminizer.

Best way to stay in shape: I love working out with a personal trainer. A personal trainer designs a workout plan for you based on your unique needs and desires. In addition, eating a varied diet rich in wholesome foods, preferably organic, is a must.

Shoes or bags? Bags - especially bags by Chloé.

Books or magazines? Books! I’m a true bookworm, preferably non-fiction.

Favourite music: My all time favourite artist is Sigur Rós.

Favourite movie: “What the Bleep Do We Know!?"

Favourite way to relax: Contemplate - I’m a daydreamer.

Favourite colour: Blue

Favourite season: All four but nothing beats the magical aura fall brings to landscapes.

If you could be anywhere right now, where would you find yourself? In the ocean, scuba diving with marine life.

What projects you are currently working on? I am currently working on a health initiative, “CLEANSE: One Body, One Planet”, which dedicates itself to bringing professional health and wellness services into the fashion industry while also helping to preserve the health and beauty of our planet.

Photo source: main photo via vogue.it, second photo courtesy of Anne-Marie Van Dijk.

Introducing: Nikolay Krasnikov

WHO: Nikolay Krasnikov, Moscow-based fashion designer

WHAT: his very first Spring 2012 collection inspired by Russian art and history 

WHERE: stay in touch via Facebook or visit official website

WHY: a beautiful blend of modern and classic that never goes out of fashion

LOOK FOR: beautiful tailoring, floating silks and gorgeous prints and lace that celebrate female form and beauty

As soon as I saw Nikolay’s collection I knew I was there for a treat. If I could compare his work to anything out there, I would definitely choose Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera Ready-to-Wear combined with some Galliano for Dior touches when it comes to Haute Couture pieces. Virtually unknown in Europe he seemed to have come from nowhere bringing a burst of colourful silk-wrapped Malyavin-inspired magic with him. Needless to say, I adore this designer not only for his incredible talent, but also an ability to keep Russian traditions, colours and style alive without making the clothes look old-fashioned or out of touch from the rest of the world.

His CV is already pretty impressive: a winner of several competitions, a student of the prestigious Lab founded by Vyacheslav Zaitsev, then – his apprentice, now – a Moscow-based boutique curator for Dolce&Gabbana and finally a designer in his own rights.

It's been a great pleasure for me to interview Nikolay for Fashioned by Love and share his story with you.

What is fashion for you?

Fashion is a very complex substance that is constantly changing depending on what’s happening in the world and the society. I think that a good designer is able to express those changes in his creations and, of course, build-up a profitable business.

When did you realise that you not only want to be a consumer, but create your own fashion?

It was 1993 when I first learned about Haute Couture. We used to have a TV programme called “Matador” hosted by Konstantin Ernst. One of the episodes was about collections from Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1993 and included a story about Gianfranco Ferre’s collection for Christian Dior with the commentary by Vyacheslav Zaitsev. For somebody living in a country of deficit it was something so fascinating, something I’d never experienced before in my life!

Back then I was only 16 and didn’t really know what career I would like to choose, but that story completely occupied my mind. There was nothing else I could think of and it totally changed my life.

What did your family think of your ideas and interest in fashion?

They’ve given me so much support. I am not sure I would be able to get through all the challenges without them.

Were you still living in Perm when it happened?

Yes, I was. I received my education there, too, and then started everything from zero. I went to study dressmaking, became a dress cutter, a tailor, a pattern designer and moved to Moscow in 1999.

Work for Vyacheslav Zaitsev

What was it like to find yourself in Moscow and start your new life there?

To be honest, I was surprised to see how many people were willing to help me – they found me a place to live and helped to get accustomed to life in the city. We stay in touch, although some are now living in Italy and others took a different path. The most important thing I’ve leaned from this experience is to be grateful to people who were there for me and, in return, be there for people whenever they need my help.

You’ve spent several years as an apprentice to Vyacheslav Zaitsev. Do you remember what you first day was like?

I’ve dreamed about this apprenticeship for 6 years. It began when I won a prize in a young designers competition called “Exercise” where Zaitsev was among the judges. Right after the competition he invited me to take part in The Lamanova Prize competition for Professional Fashion Designers where I got to compete against several students from the Zaitsev’s Fashion laboratory who  showcasted their works. One of the Lab students, Sultana Frantsuzova, won the 1st prize. I was absolutely blown away by their designs and imagination that seemed to have no rules or boundaries. They turned fashion inside out and upside down.

It’s impossible to describe how much I dreamed of being a part of the Lab, but the course fees were quite high. The answer came from Vera Tugova, the founder and president of the “Exercise” who helped me find my sponsors.

Work for Vyacheslav Zaitsev

And then the first day has finally come… We all gathered around Vyacheslav Zaitsev and listened to his stories about childhood memories, post-war hunger and years he spent establishing himself as an artist.

The course was incredibly interesting. Perhaps, there were difficulties, but I was so happy about being there I didn’t notice anything else. I took part in two competitions and won 1st prize in the Lomanova’s one and 2nd in the International contest in Berlin and was offered an apprenticeship at Vyacheslav Zaitsev Haute Couture House. I was the first Lab student who’s ever received an apprenticeship of this kind. During this time under his watchful eye I have created seven couture collections.

Has Zaitsev ever given you any advice that you will remember for the rest of your life?

He hardly ever gives any, but instead pushes you in a right direction. It was much more valuable to me than any advice.

Work for Vyacheslav Zaitsev

If you had a chance to meet any fashion designer who would it be?

John Galliano, no doubt about that. Others would be Dior, Saint Laurent, Chanel and Ferre who are no longer with us, unfortunately.

You’ve created so many beautiful collections while working with Zaitsev. What made you decide to move on and work for Dolce&Gabbana team?

I wanted to try something new, see what it’s like to work on an European level, and they paid well. I received a lot of support from Natalia Kozlova, a journalist and host of Russian TV show called “Magic of Fashion” / “Магия Моды”. I can’t thank her enough.

What is your role at Dolce&Gabbana?

I look after the merchandise managers and design of the Moscow boutiques. I work with a small but very talented team of designers. To be a luxury brand merchandiser in Russia is very different from Europe where your desire and hard work are enough to get the job. In Russia one must have a degree in art as a required minimum.

How did it feel to begin working on your own collection?

I haven’t done it for about 10 years and it felt as if I lost the skills and ability to create, but it turned out that I’ve gained so much experience, both as a designer and stylist. It was frightening to make the first step, but my confidence grew as I “kept walking”.

Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear collection

What inspires you?

Russian art, theatre, paintings, ballet, Russian crafts, history are my endless source of inspiration. My job is to adapt them to the modern reality.

From the choice of fabrics, couture embroidery to one-off prints and silhouettes, “The Improvisation of Inspiration” is a technically demanding collection. How did you manage to combine all the element in such a harmony and what was the most challenging?

The embroidery was created by Russian artisans – luckily we still have these wonderful people who know this art, while I designed every single garment, from the very first sketch to the very last stitch. My experience made is quite easy for me to achieve.

I begin by pinning the fabric to a mannequin. It’s a very old-fashioned way of dress making that can only be found in Couture houses these days. Then I transfer everything into paper and create patterns. This technique allows one to be more creative when it comes to creating a silhouette of a garment.

Who created the fabrics and gorgeous prints for the collection?

The prints were custom-designed and created in Italy. First, the pattern is created out of all the elements, then scaled and, once ready, printed on fabric. All my clothes are made from silk, linen, chiffon and silk lace.

Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear collection

Your Spring 2012 collection is very feminine and resembles a dance of flowers. What kind of woman you design your clothes for?

First of all, she is confident and, of course, intelligent, beautiful and a little bit romantic. She has a strong sense of style and is a winner in any situation. It sounds a bit too perfect,  but isn’t it what we all are trying to achieve?

Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear collection

Your Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection will be shown in March. Can you give us any idea, a hint of what we should expect?

The new collection will be even more technically demanding that the previous one in terms of tailoring and textures, but the colour scheme will be toned down.

It’s inspired by Matilda Kschesinskaya, the Russian Prima Ballerina who was able to perform 32 fouettes. The richest woman of Imperial Russia she was also a mistress of two Grand Dukes and the future Tsar Nicholas II. She lost everything during the revolution, but managed to save herself and her family, find strength to overcome the loss of her homeland, friends and title and start a new life in Paris.

Where do you see yourself in, say, 5 years from now?

Future is such an unpredictable thing. It’s hard to plan something for sure, but it’s worth trying to achieve something special.

So… are we talking Paris, Milan, London, New York or is it going to be Russia?

We’ll see… I am quite superstitious. Only time will tell… 

4 things about Nikolay Krasnikov:

Favourite dessert: anything chocolate

Favourite season: Russian winter, but I do love the sun. 

If you could be anywhere right now, where would you find yourself? Italy. I love this country, the mixture of ancient history and the latest technologies, art and wonderful weather. And, of course, wonderful Italian cuisine!!! 

Most favourite item in your wardrobe right now? Shearling jacket and fur coat – it’s freezing in Russia.

Books or glossies? Bulgakov’s Master & Margarita – he has an ability of expressing all the tragedies and contradictions of a human race with such an ease… it’s so inconceivable, so beyond me…

I also love Pushkin. His Evgenii Onegin is not just an encyclopedia of Russian life as it’s often referred to, but also a wonderful source of irony and wit.

 

Photo source: Nikolay Krasnikov Spring 2012 Lookbook courtesy of Nikolay Krasnikov, photos by Anton Bundenko

Introducing: Anya Caliendo

For a girl born in USSR dreaming about being a designer was just as unreal as planning to move to America. Anya did both. In 1999 she found herself in New York where her life changed forever. She followed her dreams and achieved things that only a few can make possible.

She learned the art of millinery while studying in London under a watchful eye of Mrs Rose Cory in 2008 and later, Mr Stephen Jones in 2009 when, as his apprentice, she created beautiful hats for John Galliano, Donna Karan, Jason Wu, Commes Des Garcons and Kinder Aggugini as well as Kylie Minogue and Rio Fashion Rocks.

Her own collections featured on pages of Italian Flair and Vogue, include a very personal Je Ne Regrette Rien that saw the world in 2008, Russia Divine Tribute (2009) and Secret Life of Dolls (2011). The latest collection, Les Enfants Terribles, inspired by Anastasia, Anya’s 16-year old daughter, is about to be revealed in a few weeks.

WHO: Anya Caliendo, New York-based designer, the heart and soul of Anya Caliendo Couture Millinery Atelier, a business woman, a loving wife and mother, a girl with a sweet tooth who wears Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Prada, Chanel and Rick Owens, has been collecting Vogues since 2000 and shares her home with “additional family members” including 3 dogs and 5 cats.

WHAT: incredibly beautiful couture hats

WHERE: read Anya’s blog, join her on Facebook and see her collections on her website

WHY: because these hats will make you feel beautiful

LOOK FOR: designs of your dreams – Anya is capable of making them real

What is your design philosophy?

I believe that there are several components to a beautifully made hat: inspiration point otherwise known as the story behind the design, mechanical planning and, finally, execution of the design with the main emphasis on craftsmanship. I also believe that the best tools God has ever granted us are our hands. The most beautiful hats in Millinery were created by hand only.

What do you find the most exciting about the art of millinery?

The power of transformation. Hats are the only accessory that are capable of transforming not only the look of the person but the entire identity. One will never be capable of achieving it with any other type of accessory.

One of the hats made by Anya Caliendo for Donna Karan Spring 2009

And what is the most challenging about your job?

The simple fact that I have only two hands. I create all my hats by hand only and it is always challenging to keep up with all my ideas. I often think that if I would have more hands, I would be able to accomplish every single design I have on paper.

What do you enjoy the most about making a hat– the process itself or seeing the final product?

I enjoy every bit of the process: from making a preliminary sketch of the design, choosing fabric and materials, colour pallet, to the actual production process. Seeing final product is almost always the saddest part of my job. It is almost like saying “farewell” to this hat.

Anastasia is wearing French Chocolate hat and Iryna is wearing Mademoiselle hat (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008)

Is there a hat in any of your collections that makes you feel moved every time you look at it?

Yes. As I look back on my past Collection I realize that I have absolutely no regrets about neither one of my hats but I do, of course, have favourites even among my most beloved hats: “Rouge Noir”, “La Parisienne”, “Confidante: She Who Holds My Secrets” and, finally “Libertine” – the new hat designed for my new Collection.

La Parisienne (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008)

Who or what do you think of when working on a new design?

Each design to me is a story that has to be told in fabrics and colour. Each hat has an inspiration behind it and every time I start a new design I have a very clear vision of the person or the memory that inspired the design. For the entire duration of production time I almost get possessed by the ideas that each story brings with it. I also can’t help but think about the woman ho will wear this hat. I try to imagine what her life is like and where would she wear this hat.

From “Sweet Memories” hat back in 2008 to an entire Les Enfants Terribles collection, your daughter Anastasia seems to becoming a source of endless inspiration for you. Is she your new muse?

Yes, she is one of my Muses. I don’t think she realises it yet and I hope one day she will look back on everything I have designed so far and see how much her mother loved her. I have a privilege of having this wonderful creature in my life: she is not only a source of my inspiration but a source of strength, my number one fan and still my little girl.

Sweet Memories (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008) * Naughty Charlotte (Les Enfants Terribles 2011)

And what other women you’ve been inspired by?

Oh, so many! I can sit all week long listing names of women who have continuously inspired me: Amelia Earhart, Elsa Schiaparelli, Gala Dali, Anna Pavlova, Nadejda Lamanova, Anna Timireva, Anna Akhmatova, young Coco Chanel to name just a few.

You’ve said once that working with Mr Jones “because a life and career changing experience” for you. What was the most important lesson you’ve learnt from him?

The most important lesson: “never do what I expect you to do”. Sounds simple enough, but it became one of the most powerful advices I have ever been given in the field of Millinery Arts. It gave me complete freedom in exploring unexpected territories outside of the borders of traditional millinery techniques.

Would you consider collaborating with fashion designers in the future?

Absolutely! This is something I will, most certainly, do in the nearest future.

“Ingrid” featured in Vogue Latin America September 2010

And which designer would be your ideal match?

I would love to design hats for one of the new Collections of “Irfe”, Chanel, Giambattista Valli , Nina Ricci and John Galliano.

What is your ultimate goal?

My ultimate goal is to contribute to the powerful comeback of the hats here, in the US and anywehere in the world. I desperately want women to see the beauty and elegance of hats. I also want to show people that Millinery is one of the most beautiful creative fields in Fashion Design. Well, I just want to remind them of it.

Anna Pavlova (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008)

5 things about Anya Caliendo

Favourite dessert: Laduree Macaroons

If you could be anywhere right now where would you find yourself? Paris in the morning and St. Petersburg in the evening

Most favourite item in your wardrobe right now? My new Nina Ricci booties.

Shoes or bags? Shoes and HATS!

One of your guilty pleasures: Coats by Lanvin

Photo source: Donna Karan collection via style.com, Vogue Latin America September 2010, all other photos courtesy of Anya Caliendo and Zorz Studios and protected by copyright

A story of Bottega Veneta

Once upon a time, in 1966, 45 years ago, a new atelier opened in Vicenza, in the Veneto region of Italy. Its owners, Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro, founded the brand to produce premier leather goods to satisfy demanding taste of Italian ladies and gentlemen whose genetic love for beauty and craftsmanship was running in their veins together with a need for understated luxury that required no logos to be truly appreciated.

The unmistakable sign of Bottega was not only in the quality, but in the way their products were made. The Intrecciato weave was born when the company’s artisans had to cut buttery soft superfine glove leather into strips to get it through sewing machines originally designed to stich fabric. The new technique made the leather more durable for accessories and distinctive crosshatched pattern became a signature mark of Bottega Veneta.

As the time went by the reputation of “Venetian Atelier” and its super-soft, sensuous, handcrafted handbags continued to grow. The brand was becoming one of the most refined and respected fashion houses in Italy. In the 1970s, the new motto “When your own initials are enough” increased the popularity and sales even more.

Bottega Veneta was now loved around the world and found its fans among Studio 54 crowd including Andy Warhol who later made a short movie about the brand.

Things, however, started to change when Renzo Zengiaro decided to leave Bottega Veneta followed by Taddei a few years later. Some say, the departure was caused by commercial pressures to change company’s aesthetics and turn it into yet another logo-driven brand. And so the abandoned house found its new owners in Vittorio and Laura Moltedo who chose to forget about the essence of Bottega and venture into the new trendy industry where products made of nylon were enough to keep new customers happy. Sadly, it didn’t take long for Bottega Veneta to dissolve into brash and loud mass of logo-overloaded brands, its fortunes declined and the company was close to bankruptcy by the end of the 20th century.

It would have been a sad story with a very tearful ending, but one day (and what a fine day it was) a Fairy Godmother appeared from nowhere bearing good news and hopes. Actually, she didn’t look like a fairy at all, but more like Tom Ford, a creative director of Gucci Group who bought the company for $156 million in 2001. The era of quiet luxury was returning.

The newly appointed Tomas Maier joined the company in June that same year. He was a perfect choice for Bottega Veneta. Trained at the institutional Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, the designer has already established himself by working with Sonia Rykiel, Revillon, Hermès other well-regarded fashion houses as well as creating his own brand. In nine years Maier increased Bottega Veneta’s sales by eight hundred per cent and created a beautiful future for the brand starting from a ready-to-wear lines for women and men that were launched in 2002, jewellery collection -  in 2004, furniture and home accessories – in 2006 and perfume – in 2011.

And so the story continued… making an unforgettable history of timeless style and impeccable taste that never go out of fashion because Bottega Veneta is so much more than that.

Photo sources: Bottega Veneta Campaign Fall 2004, Bottega Veneta Campaign Spring 2003 (2&3), Bottega Veneta Campaign Fall 2002 (4&6), Interview December 2009

Introducing: Myriam Girard

Although this petite French lady has only been designing lingerie for just over a year, the elegant negligees in silk satin, crêpe de Chine and Chantilly lace have already been featured in numerous glossies including InStyle, The Body Magazine, GQ, Sunday Express, Intimo Piu Mare and Playboy and admired by many women looking for luxurious glamorous lingerie that is still affordable.

A beautiful world created by Myriam Girard is what any woman would call Heaven… and then feel tempted, so very tempted because every single piece in her collection is simply irresistible.

Despite of being very busy, Myriam was incredibly sweet and agreed to answer my questions after I contacted her asking for an interview. I hope you enjoy learning more about her and fall in love with her beautiful creations, just like I did.

WHO: Myriam Girard, London-based Parisienne and luxury lingerie designer

WHAT: exquisite hand-made pieces in delicious raspberry, classic black, dusty rose and mauve silks decorated with traditional French Chantilly lace (bought from the same supplier as Christian Dior’s)

WHERE: shop @ myriamgirard.com, stay in touch via Facebook/Twitter

WHY: gorgeous natural silk fabrics, delicate lace and timelessly elegant lingerie will make you feel sensual, elegant, beautiful and feminine 24/7

LOOK FOR: ravishing Chantilly lace and silk satin Ravissante collection, mauve crêpe de Chine Plaisir teddy, flirty Délice pieces made of dusty rose silk and burgundy lace and stunning Envoûtante silk and lace slip in a rich shade of ruby (the colour is what one would call haute couture as it was created by the designer).

Can you tell us a little about yourself?

I am French, I have been living in London for about 10 years. I have always been in love with lingerie and beautiful things, but I haven’t always been a designer. I have worked in many fields: from nightlife to finance!

What inspired you to become a lingerie designer?

I was getting tired of only finding synthetic fabrics in lingerie and loungewear products. I wanted to design a line that would be high-quality, flatter the feminine frame and would be comfortable as well as stylish.

Your brand logo was designed by your brother Michael and he also wrote the music for your video. Do you think creativity is something that runs in your family?

Probably! My parents are also very creative and we have a few artists in the family. They taught us a sense of style and the love of craftsmanship.

When did you launch your lingerie label?

The first collection was launched in January 2010, so it is still early days for the brand.

Do you remember your very first sale?

It was an online sale from a lovely lady based in London, she has become a loyal customer and I will always thank her for being the first person to trust the brand.

What 5 words would you choose to describe your brand?

Chic, Luxurious, Elegant, Sensual & Timeless

Where do you get inspirations for your collections?

I get inspired by art and especially by paintings. I think painters have a wonderful eye for detail and manage to catch a woman's beauty and style. I love Fragonard, Ingres, Degas or Klimt, they make women look so feminine, sensual and powerful.

What influence your choice of materials?

I favour natural fabrics as they let the skin breeze. I love working with silks: Crepe de Chine, Silk Satin, Charmeuse, Jacquard… Every type of silk has a very unique feel and drapes differently on the body. I create my own colours of silks, so customers are buying something they won’t find anywhere else.

What is the best about being a lingerie designer?

There are so many exciting things: being surrounded by wonderful fabrics and laces, creating collections, fittings, photoshoots, interacting with customers, travelling….and above all, owning your own label.

What are the challenges of being a designer?

Keeping the brand interesting, creating pieces that suit a woman’s wardrobe and lifestyle and making sure the pieces suit all body types. A good cut is essential.

What kind of woman wears MG lingerie?

She is confident, elegant and loves luxury. She's a woman of style who looks good at any time of the day and night

If you had to choose three pieces from your collection, which ones would they be and why?

I love the Envoûtante slip for its bold “crushed berries” colour and beautiful Chantilly lace. Lovely piece to wear on a romantic weekend. It’s cut on the bias like couture dresses so it makes it so flattering and sexy.

Another favourite of mine is the Mystérieuse teddy. Wear it at home for loungewear chic or take it on holidays to wear by the pool for sunny breakfasts.

Last but not least is the Ravissante bodysuit. Great to wear under a silk blouse this winter or if you feel more adventurous wear it as an evening top with fitted trousers and a tailored jacket. It looks amazing on the body.

And the last questions, because I just have to ask a true Parisienne... Could you name, say 5, things every Parisienne needs to define her unique style?

A nice posture, good manners, less is more (I never go for too many accessories), elegant shoes and of course great silk and lace lingerie!

5 things about Myriam Girard:

Favourite dessert: my mum’s chocolate mousse

If you could be anywhere right now, where would you find yourself? In the South of France, having a wonderful meal by the seaside.

Most favourite item in your wardrobe right now? My Repetto flats, I take them everywhere, so comfortable and they looks great with any outfit.

Shoes or bags? Shoes! I have them in every colour and for any occasion.

One of your guilty pleasures? Pierre Herme macarons, I can not resist the Rose macarons nor the Chocolate Passion-Fruit ones.

All pieces featured in this interview are available to order on myriamgirard.com