For a girl born in USSR dreaming about being a designer was just as unreal as planning to move to America. Anya did both. In 1999 she found herself in New York where her life changed forever. She followed her dreams and achieved things that only a few can make possible.
She learned the art of millinery while studying in London under a watchful eye of Mrs Rose Cory in 2008 and later, Mr Stephen Jones in 2009 when, as his apprentice, she created beautiful hats for John Galliano, Donna Karan, Jason Wu, Commes Des Garcons and Kinder Aggugini as well as Kylie Minogue and Rio Fashion Rocks.
Her own collections featured on pages of Italian Flair and Vogue, include a very personal Je Ne Regrette Rien that saw the world in 2008, Russia Divine Tribute (2009) and Secret Life of Dolls (2011). The latest collection, Les Enfants Terribles, inspired by Anastasia, Anya’s 16-year old daughter, is about to be revealed in a few weeks.
WHO: Anya Caliendo, New York-based designer, the heart and soul of Anya Caliendo Couture Millinery Atelier, a business woman, a loving wife and mother, a girl with a sweet tooth who wears Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Prada, Chanel and Rick Owens, has been collecting Vogues since 2000 and shares her home with “additional family members” including 3 dogs and 5 cats.
WHAT: incredibly beautiful couture hats
WHERE: read Anya’s blog, join her on Facebook and see her collections on her website
WHY: because these hats will make you feel beautiful
LOOK FOR: designs of your dreams – Anya is capable of making them real
What is your design philosophy?
I believe that there are several components to a beautifully made hat: inspiration point otherwise known as the story behind the design, mechanical planning and, finally, execution of the design with the main emphasis on craftsmanship. I also believe that the best tools God has ever granted us are our hands. The most beautiful hats in Millinery were created by hand only.
What do you find the most exciting about the art of millinery?
The power of transformation. Hats are the only accessory that are capable of transforming not only the look of the person but the entire identity. One will never be capable of achieving it with any other type of accessory.
One of the hats made by Anya Caliendo for Donna Karan Spring 2009
And what is the most challenging about your job?
The simple fact that I have only two hands. I create all my hats by hand only and it is always challenging to keep up with all my ideas. I often think that if I would have more hands, I would be able to accomplish every single design I have on paper.
What do you enjoy the most about making a hat– the process itself or seeing the final product?
I enjoy every bit of the process: from making a preliminary sketch of the design, choosing fabric and materials, colour pallet, to the actual production process. Seeing final product is almost always the saddest part of my job. It is almost like saying “farewell” to this hat.
Anastasia is wearing French Chocolate hat and Iryna is wearing Mademoiselle hat (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008)
Is there a hat in any of your collections that makes you feel moved every time you look at it?
Yes. As I look back on my past Collection I realize that I have absolutely no regrets about neither one of my hats but I do, of course, have favourites even among my most beloved hats: “Rouge Noir”, “La Parisienne”, “Confidante: She Who Holds My Secrets” and, finally “Libertine” – the new hat designed for my new Collection.
La Parisienne (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008)
Who or what do you think of when working on a new design?
Each design to me is a story that has to be told in fabrics and colour. Each hat has an inspiration behind it and every time I start a new design I have a very clear vision of the person or the memory that inspired the design. For the entire duration of production time I almost get possessed by the ideas that each story brings with it. I also can’t help but think about the woman ho will wear this hat. I try to imagine what her life is like and where would she wear this hat.
From “Sweet Memories” hat back in 2008 to an entire Les Enfants Terribles collection, your daughter Anastasia seems to becoming a source of endless inspiration for you. Is she your new muse?
Yes, she is one of my Muses. I don’t think she realises it yet and I hope one day she will look back on everything I have designed so far and see how much her mother loved her. I have a privilege of having this wonderful creature in my life: she is not only a source of my inspiration but a source of strength, my number one fan and still my little girl.
Sweet Memories (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008) * Naughty Charlotte (Les Enfants Terribles 2011)
And what other women you’ve been inspired by?
Oh, so many! I can sit all week long listing names of women who have continuously inspired me: Amelia Earhart, Elsa Schiaparelli, Gala Dali, Anna Pavlova, Nadejda Lamanova, Anna Timireva, Anna Akhmatova, young Coco Chanel to name just a few.
You’ve said once that working with Mr Jones “because a life and career changing experience” for you. What was the most important lesson you’ve learnt from him?
The most important lesson: “never do what I expect you to do”. Sounds simple enough, but it became one of the most powerful advices I have ever been given in the field of Millinery Arts. It gave me complete freedom in exploring unexpected territories outside of the borders of traditional millinery techniques.
Would you consider collaborating with fashion designers in the future?
Absolutely! This is something I will, most certainly, do in the nearest future.
“Ingrid” featured in Vogue Latin America September 2010
And which designer would be your ideal match?
I would love to design hats for one of the new Collections of “Irfe”, Chanel, Giambattista Valli , Nina Ricci and John Galliano.
What is your ultimate goal?
My ultimate goal is to contribute to the powerful comeback of the hats here, in the US and anywehere in the world. I desperately want women to see the beauty and elegance of hats. I also want to show people that Millinery is one of the most beautiful creative fields in Fashion Design. Well, I just want to remind them of it.
Anna Pavlova (Je Ne Regrette Rien 2008)
5 things about Anya Caliendo
Favourite dessert: Laduree Macaroons
If you could be anywhere right now where would you find yourself? Paris in the morning and St. Petersburg in the evening
Most favourite item in your wardrobe right now? My new Nina Ricci booties.
Shoes or bags? Shoes and HATS!
One of your guilty pleasures: Coats by Lanvin
Photo source: Donna Karan collection via style.com, Vogue Latin America September 2010, all other photos courtesy of Anya Caliendo and Zorz Studios and protected by copyright
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