Loving the flower printed skirts and dresses that remind me of recent Erdem and Dolce&Gabbana collections, the white lace pieces and beading on the cropped light camel coloured jackets. The silk skirt is particularly tempting as far as my autumn wardrobe goes. I feel that the burst of burgundy, cream and gold would be just perfect.
So have you heard of Burda Moden? It was the fashion magazine every Russian woman used as the most reliable reference when it came to style, whether it was wardrobe ideas, home deco, beauty or cooking. Burda came to us in 1987 like some exotic present from Western Germany, a glorious glossy dream from the country of plenty to the country of deficit (of everything). It was expensive (5 roubles an issue and an average salary was 150 roubles) and impossibly difficult to buy. It was literally a treasure.
A copy would move from household to household, usually wrapped in a plastic cover to prevent any damage. The recipes and beauty advice would be copied by hand, every diet – adjusted to suit the availability of the fresh produce, exercise routines – tried and tested (and God, did we dream of having those lycra leggings!) and the clothes… Well, the clothes part was relatively easy as many women could either sew or knit, so once a suitable fabric was found, the clothes could become a wearable reality.
We had a few of our own Burda issues and, as a little girl, I constantly created long Wish lists mainly of outfits and shoes hope that one day I will get a chance to wear something like this. I also prepared some of the foods and DIY’ed extensively.
When I came across a folder with pages torn out of Burda circa 1987-1990 I felt nostalgia sipping through my veins. I smiled for it brought sweet memories.
The blog seemed to be a perfect place for storing the scans, and sharing a few personal stories as well as fashion designs and articles from the past. I’ll start these new “The Way We Wore” series today and continues over the course of several months, a story or so every four weeks. Of course, my Burda speaks Russian, but I will translate some of the relevant parts for you. Let me know what you think of all this.
Issue 4. Autumn 1988
Colour of the season: emerald. Blouses: from elegant to sporty. Fashion for mums-to-be. 8 designs for the city. Recipes: fruit and vegetable preserves. Plus: Sweaters. Crafts.
(my mum actually had this blouse made later and we shared it)
A touch of emerald – just one touch is enough to make a simple houndstooth check coat look chic.
Wide trousers, loafers, emerald…
Feminine shapes, focus on waist, pastel colours and soft fabrics. A touch of burgundy or yellow. Must admit, that I’ve always loved these two looks.
Trend spotting: the tulip skirt
Red, military buttons, plaid…
Business woman: olive and mix of pattern, polka dots on a jacket, stripes on pencil skirt.
My favourite sweater out of the bunch from that issue. Notice the long silk plisse skirt.
Autumn ‘88 latest trends: feminine shapes in footwear (my mum actually had those boots), L’Oreal Elnett hairspray, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent – sensual, mysterious and incredibly feminine, fabric and leather colour dyes (never seen them, doubt will ever know what they were), Effekton hair colourants by Svoboda, Moscow, Byzance by Rochas perfume – delicate red rose, exquisite iris, carnation, vanilla and geranium combined with patchouli, sandalwood and musk, Pfaff sewing machine, new aftershave for men from Schwarzkopf.
Fashion world was talking about Paris fashion week, Spring 1989. Brief translation: Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, Lagerfeld, Montana, Mugler, Kenzo, Gaultier and other fashion designers showed their unique collections. Each consists of 30-50 looks. The models – only the best ones. Each collection is accompanied by music. The only exception is Yves Saint Laurent who prefers a silent performance. 3000-5000 people get to see it live. Sometimes fashion journalist and media have to see up to 10 shows a day. Their day begins early, at 10:30. From then the media pack has to rush from show to show that can take place anywhere – a night club, hotel and even palace. Shows never starts on time, so the crowd has to sit and wait for 30-60 minutes. The last show ends at 9 p.m. Then it’s time to take a break and grab a bite to eat. It costs between 30000 and 70 000 Deutsche marks to produce a fashion show, but it “must go on” no matter what.
So while the world is focusing on fashion in Paris, Russia hosts its very first beauty contest, “Miss Moscow ‘88” sponsored by Burda Moden. Masha Kalinina, the 16-year old student from Moscow, who won the title was then sent to Germany for a Burda Moden photoshoot, then continued working as a model and eventually moved to LA where she now lives.
To be continued…
Photo source: Vogue US October 1988
“One is never over-dressed or underdressed with a little black dress.”
Karl Lagerfeld
Photo source: Vogue Italia February 2011
Often there’s an item that travels from editorial to editorial giving us a craving or allergy, which, luckily for us, is a seasonal thing. On the other hand, this Philip Treacy’s Butterfly Mask seems to have no time boundaries. Ageless beauty. An object of Art. Totally fascinating. Absolutely unforgettable.
Photo source: Veruschka circa 1968, Elle US April 2003, Harper’s Bazaar US August 2009, Vogue Paris October 2010, Vogue Russia December 2010, Love Ball 2011
Have been saving this to match the weather and seasonality.
Photo source: Vogue US November 1993
"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a movable feast.”
Paris fashion week is a tempting, beautiful and simply irresistible feast for the eyes and mind. It is the final accord in a symphony of fashion worth waiting for and tuning to because this is where the culmination happens, all the notes sound in perfect harmony and all the missing pieces find their place in our hearts and, for the lucky ones, wardrobes.
Paris, I love you so very much.
Photo sources: Elle China May 2010, Harper’s Bazaar US January 2003, InStyle US November 1999, Kurv 2010, Elle US April 2004, Tatler UK September 2011, Marie Claire Italia October 2010, Numero 117 2010, Vogue Australia 2011, Vogue Germany 2006, Vogue Italia December 1999, ???, Vogue Paris January 2007, Vogue Paris June/July 2009, Vogue UK August 2009
This weekend we are off to a birthday party. The birthday girl is turning one, she is getting a whole load of cute presents and a library of cards. Plus, I have a feeling, a cake and a tray of cupcakes, too. Not as if she is going to remember any of that, but it’s cute to be a part of it. We got her something soft and fluffy as well as a card saying “the best thing about getting older is that you don’t have to do what you are told”. It’s a quote from some 7-year old. I spotted those cards a while ago and bought the lot. The one above is my favourite for anyone under 21.
Feel like wearing a long skirt and an old much loved bow cardi from Gap to achieve the silhouette a la Louis Vuitton ready-to-Wear Fall 2010 (my favourite LV collection).
Wishing you a wonderful weekend!
Always yours,
Photo source: Vogue Enfants supplement, Vogue Paris 2010
